Hebron

Bethlehem - the star, under the altar, marks the spot, pretty much, where Jesus popped out of Mary. Yes its about right. Ask me why it has 14 points.

I'm on a Tour Bus full of Alernative-seeking tourists. This trip takes us to Aida Refugee camp.

I've always presumed that the phrase 'Refugee Camp' meant temporary tents and barbed wire to keep you in. But these people were driven here in 1948 when some Zionists destroyed 35villages so they've built themselves houses but with almost 3,000 under 18s and only two schools. You do the maths. They can go wherever they like, within Palestine (actually they can't easily get to the West Bank or to Gaza).

A muslim woman who's telling us how she is part of Beautiful NonViolent Resistance: they teach dance and drama as ways of breaking up the stereotypical labels. She says the Two State Solution (reluctantly favoured by most Israelis) is No solution for her, she wants to be able to go back to her village and to worship at Al Aqsa Mosque.

The phrase 'Israeli Settlement' has always conjured up an image of temporary accommodation for a few squatters. But they're as big as towns and cities, attractive to live in because the housing is so cheap. Often they offer to buy up Palestinian homes and can offer big bucks. Shame on me, I'd probably take the money instead of the imminent hassle.

Banksy has done some graffiti on the Palestinian side of the Wall (not sure if this is one of his). One Restaurant has pinned up a huge white sheet on it so as to project the footie on to it.

The Mosque of Ibrahim in Hebron celebrates where the ancestor of three big faiths is buried. Rebecca and Isaac are in the Muslim side of this building whilst Sarah (picture below) and Abraham are in the Synagogue and its claimed even Leah, Jacob and Joseph.

Rachel, if you're wondering, died giving birth to Benjamin in Bethlehem. The Tomb of Rachel is surrounded by The Wall, I have no idea how to get to it. I think its behind the above picture (NOW), so close and yet.

On the bus, everyone has heard of Rachel Corrie who stood in front of a bulldozer in 2003 in Gaza to protect a Palestinian home and was killed. No one seems to know the Bible story of Joseph let alone Rachel. I waxed lyrically all the way home.